Mushara Lodge to Roy's Camp to Windhoek

Mushara Lodge was a fantastic place to relax for a day in luxurious surroundings. 

Our next stop was Roy's Camp only 21/2 hours down the road. We had originally intended to visit a bush mans camp from here but on investigation discovered it was a living museum very similar to the one we had visited in Damaraland. Also there was some doubt that the van would cope with the road conditions. In light of this decided to spend only one night at Roy's Camp and head for Windhoek a day early also to give us a travel break before the long flight home.

Roy's Camp was somewhat different from the previous lodges we'd stayed at. Quirky probably is one description. Rustic another. The food & beds were fine but one day was enough.

The trip from Roy's Camp to Windhoek was over 500 km but on tar sealed very straight roads so arrived mid afternoon. The road south was more populated than further North and there seemed to be game farms and lodges / camps at regular intervals. The main hazard was warthogs dashing across the road periodically. 

We had an interesting experience when we stopped for a coffee at Otijwarongo a sizeable town with modern buildings in the CBD area. We were directed to a coffee shop in the supermarket so were walking down the street alongside which was a local market selling sweets and $2 shop nicknacks. Lorraine and Howard were at the back when I heard Lorraine exclaim. Looked around and a group of youths had closed in on them and unzipped their backpacks. Fortunately they obviously weren't very practised at this so didn't get anything but it gave us a wake up call to be a bit more careful. The only incident we'd had all trip. 

At  Okahandja stopped at a very extensive woodcraft market but couldn't work out how to get some lovely giraffes my height home so left them there.

Now we are at Windhoek planning to have a look around today before we head off tomorrow. 

A great trip and a very interesting place to visit. The accommodation and food also fantastic. 

Etosha National Park - Dolomite Camp to Okaukuejo Camp to Mushara Lodge

Etosha National Park - Dolomite Camp to Okaukuejo Camp to Mushara Lodge

The next couple of days we stayed inside the park travelling from west to east visiting the several waterholes on the way. We couldn't get out of our vehicles but did have an enclosed toilet / lunch stops halfway along the route. 

All had some animals but one had an amazing array of wildlife. See photos. Saw ostriches having a kick boxing match at one spot. At Okaukuejo camp we watched a herd of elephants washing, drinking then having a dust bath. The males were huge and the babies cute. A lion was noticed across the other side of the waterhole. For over half an hour we watched it. Giraffes coming towards the waterhole were in mid halt as the lion was between them and the waterhole. The lion made a move nearer and the elephants who were just moving off were also suspended waiting to see what would happen. A large male elephant moved towards the lion trumpeting loudly until it moved further away. The lion came down for a drink later but we missed it as we're having dinner. Some others stayed up to 10pm and saw rhino at the waterhole. They flood lit the waterhole at night. 

Mushara Lodge is just outside the park. Some may go on a game drive to try and catch sight of a big cat. The units are very luxurious. A lovely spot for R & R.

Epupa Camp to Dolomite Camp Etosha National Park

Epupa Camp to Dolomite Camp Etosha National Park.

Drove back to Opawa then on South to Etosha National Park. Joy o joy tar sealed road all the way to the gate entrance to the park. Still had to slow for goats and cattle wandering across the road at intervals. Began to see some game nearer the park such as ostriches, springbok, oryx, buck deer, zebra with different colourings to what we are used to. Black & brown tonings as well as white.

Burchell's zebra (See photos)

Arrived at Dolomite Camp inside the park mid afternoon. The chalets were all along the brow of a hill with a view to the plains on both sides. Our unit which had a timber frame with canvas sides but otherwise was an up market chalet had a view of the water holes and we were able to see many elephants having their afternoon bath and drink.

Got our daily fitness walking to the restaurant and back morning and night along the top of the hill.

Himba Village

The next day we went on a tour to a local Himba village. This was a normal village not set up for tourists although at the end they did have a small craft market. They were happy to answer questions about their village life and we were free to take photos. Very simple life style. The women's main occupation seemed to be to have babies. (up to 15 on average) They washed once in their life before they got married. They rub oil and ocre into their skin which protects from the harsh sun. They wear goat skin around the parts they clothe. Their hair was also coated with oil and ocre. A very good adaption to the environment considering the scarcity of water. No bodies , hair or clothes to wash. They didn't smell at all. As close as we got anyway.

The men and boys were away tending their animals during the day. 

Very little inside their huts. Just some of their headgear hanging up and an incense smouldering fire. Cooking was done on an outside fire. Tried some cooked maise kernels they were cooking. Bit like not very good pop corn!

Store House

Epupa Falls

Arriving at Epupa Falls was like being in another world. Palm trees, lots of water in the river, waterfalls and crocodiles! 

Our accommodation was down by the river under the trees, above which lived nut hurling and food stealing monkeys.

Our abode was a tent!! However this was glamping with an ensuite attached. Bed very comfortable with duvets. In the evening we went on a sunset tour with wine and nibbles. Then back for dinner with a  beautifully set up table by the river. Had two nights at this lovely spot.

Opuwo to Epupa Camp

Stocking up on supplies at Opuwo we headed further North to Epupa which is very close to the Angolean border.

We passed many Himba villages with their simple stick and mud circular houses. Herds of goats and cattle were tended mostly by a young boys from the villages along the roadside. The animals looked in reasonable condition considering the sparse vegetation.

Some woman were walking along the road in their traditional garb (see photos) trying to hitch a ride. 

Twyfelfontein to Palmwag to Opuwo

A village on the way.

The hill where we all had to get out so the van could get up it!

Lorraine in front of a babobab tree 

We are now seeing more people and villages on the roadside. Two main ethic groups Herero and Himba people. Both have amazing traditional clothes.

A Herero woman 

The Himba people who are nomadic goat and cattle herders. Rub goat fat and red mud ochre into their skin for protection from the harsh desert climate. The clothing they do wear is made mainly from goat skin. At Opuwo we went for a walk  along the two main streets which was fascinating. Along with us came a self appointed guide who was trying to sell us bracelets and beads. She had very good English and was very happy to answer our questions. She was also Himba but not wearing the traditional garb. 

Himba people shopping in town.

Scenes In Opuwo 

Swakopmund to Erongo to Twyfelfontein

We drove back from the farm to Swakopmund then headed north to Erongo. 

The scenery mostly sand and scrubby desert. 

Stayed at an amazing lodge Ali Aiba. Great respite after a dusty ride. 

The following day we drove on a variety of gravel roads varying between white, yellow or red dust. The corrugations varied depending where the graders had been.

The area we were travelling was Damaraland. The hills had amazing granite formations and as we headed north there seemed to be more vegetation in the desert. Despite elephant signs now and again and many eyes looking we only saw herds of goats and cows. 

Eventually we arrived at another fantastic lodge where we were able to relax and admire our surroundings. 

The following morning we went on a trip to view the 2000 year old rock paintings.

We then visited a Darma village set up for tourists to show their life style but did provide the villagers with an income. 

Our guide

Playing a game like mancala

Woman making beads and bracelets

Fire making

Entertaining